Raymond Blanc's kitchen secrets: exclusive recipes (2024)

Moules marinière

This Normandy classic is easy to reproduce in your kitchen. It is now possible to buy excellent fresh mussels – cleaned and ready for the pot.

Serves 4

Preparation: 20 mins

Cooking: 5 mins

Special equipment: large sauté pan with tight-fitting lid

Planning ahead: this dish can be prepared 4-6 hours in advance

mussels very fresh, good-quality¹ 1.8kg

dry white wine 100ml

unsalted butter 20g

white onion 1 small, peeled and very finely chopped

bay leaves 4

thyme 8 sprigs

whipping cream 2 tbsp

flat-leaf parsley 3 tbsp, roughly chopped

Wash the mussels thoroughly in a bowl under cold running water, removing any barnacles and beards that are still present. Discard any mussels that float, including those that are closed². Drain the mussels in a colander. Meanwhile, boil the wine in a small pan for 30 seconds³.

To cook the mussels, in a large saucepan over a high heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, bay leaves and thyme, stir and then add the wine after 10 seconds. Bring to the boil, add the mussels and cover with the tight-fitting lid. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the mussels open. Stir in the cream and chopped parsley⁴.

To serve the mussels, tip into a large dish or divide among warmed soup plates. Provide your guests with finger bowls and serve with lots of good French bread to mop up the wonderful juices.

Variations: for an Indian flavour, add a generous pinch of Madras curry powder to the onion and finish the dish with lemon juice and freshly chopped coriander. For a Thai flavour, add some chopped fresh chilli, garlic, lemon grass and a kaffir lime leaf; replace the cream with creamed coconut or coconut milk.

Notes

1) The secret, as ever, is in the freshness of the mussels. A fresh mussel is shiny, closed and heavy with seawater, with no "fishy" smell.

2) Mussels should be tightly closed – any that are not should be discarded as they will be dead. Don't scrub the shells with a knife as you clean them, as their colour will leach into the juices during cooking, giving an unappetising grey hue.

3) It is essential to boil the wine before you use it, to remove most of the harsh alcohol taste, leaving the fruity, acidic qualities of the wine to balance the dish.

4) No seasoning is required in this dish as when the mussels open they release a small amount of trapped salt water, which is enough to season the dish perfectly.

Pollock fillet grenobloise, pomme purée

We have fished our cod to near extinction and while stocks are hopefully replenishing, it is lovely to have a fish like pollock. Although not as sumptuous as cod, it has a great texture and big flavour and is underrated, in my view. After all, it is a member of the cod family. Cooked in homes all over France, this recipe is part of the classic French repertoire. The method of pan-frying lends itself to other round fish, including salmon, cod, hake and mullet.

Serves 4

Preparation: 10 mins

Cooking: 10 mins, plus 30 mins for pomme purée

Special equipment: ovenproof frying pan

Planning ahead: the croûtons can be prepared well in advance and reheated in the oven.

pollock fillets (skin on) 4, each 180g and 3cm thick

sea salt 4 pinches

freshly ground white pepper 2 pinches

unsalted butter 40g

For the pomme purée

Desirée, Belle de Fontenay or Estima potatoes 1kg¹

whole milk, warmed 170-200ml

unsalted butter, melted 70g

sea salt 2 pinches

white pepper freshly, finely ground 2 pinches

For the sauce

water 50ml

lemon ½ peeled and segments cut free from the membrane, juice reserved

capers 2 tbsp, washed and drained

shallot 30g, peeled and finely chopped

flat-leaf parsley finely chopped 10g

To finish

small croûtons 30g²

To cook the potatoes for the pomme purée, peel and quarter the potatoes, cutting them into even-sized pieces. Place in a large saucepan, add enough cold water to cover and bring to the boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat so that the water is gently simmering and cook for 25-30 minutes³ until the potatoes are soft.

To finish the purée, tip the cooked potatoes into a colander to drain and leave for 2-3 minutes to allow excess steam to escape. Pass the potato through a mouli or fine potato masher and return to the saucepan. Using a wooden spoon, gradually mix in 170ml warm milk and then stir in the melted butter and seasoning. Taste and correct the seasoning if necessary. If the purée is too firm, thin it down with a little more milk. You know you have the perfect purée when it is fluffy, forms firm peaks and melts in your mouth. Keep warm over a pan of simmering water.

To cook the fish, preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Pat the pollock fillets dry and season the flesh side with salt and pepper. In a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat, melt the butter and heat until foaming, then add the fish fillets flesh side down and colour for 5-6 minutes⁴. With the aid of a fish slice, carefully turn the fillets on to the skin side and cook for a further 1 minute.

Now place the pan in the hot oven for 4-5 minutes. Take out the pan and place back on a high heat for 1 minute. Carefully transfer the fish fillets from the frying pan to a warm serving dish.

To make the sauce, add the water to the hot pan and stir so that the caramelised juices dissolve and emulsify into the liquid as it boils⁵. Add the lemon segments and juice to the frying pan with the capers, shallot and parsley. Bring back to the boil, taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

To serve, spoon the pomme purée on to warmed plates and place the fish on top. Pour the sauce on and around the fish⁶, scatter over the hot croûtons and serve.

Variations: you can replace the water with brown chicken stock to give more depth of flavour to the sauce. Flavour the potato purée with crushed garlic, freshly grated nutmeg, olive oil, freshly grated horseradish, mustard or any chopped herbs you like.

Notes

1) Choosing the right potatoes is important: too waxy or too starchy and they won't purée very well; too watery and they will be tasteless. Get to know your potatoes and which varieties are best for different cooking purposes. You also need to appreciate that storage alters potato characteristics, so be prepared to change to a different variety every few months.

2) To make the croûtons, cut crustless white bread into 1cm cubes, toss in melted unsalted butter or olive oil and scatter on a baking tray. Toast in a preheated oven at 200C/gas mark 6 for 5-6 minutes.

3) Do not boil the potatoes rapidly or they may overcook and absorb excessive water, making a watery purée.

4) The success of this dish lies in the understanding of the simple technique of pan-frying and regulating the temperature to achieve the right degree of heat. The butter will start to foam at about 130C. At about 150-155C it will go hazelnut colour. This is the perfect stage to caramelise the fish without drying it. If the butter becomes too hot, it will burn and the fish will dry out. However, if the butter isn't hot enough, the fish won't brown and it will stew in its own juices. At this stage, if the temperature is right, the smells are invading your kitchen. And while the fish proteins are browning, the juices are seeping out and collecting at the bottom of the pan – begging for a splash of water to create a heavenly jus.

5) Simply adding water to the pan the fish has been cooked in can create a most exciting jus, as it dilutes the caramelised juices at the bottom of the pan.

6) Often people discard the skin, but to me this is the best part, and the most nutritious as it is where the essential omega fatty acids are concentrated.

Salad of grilled squid and Provençal vegetables

A juicy, colourful summer salad of flavours from Provence. Combining protein-rich squid, fabulous vegetables and the best extra virgin olive oil, it is simple, satisfying and nutritious.

Serves 4

Preparation: 20 mins, plus 30 minutes marinating

Cooking: 5 mins

Special equipment: griddle pan, mandolin

Planning ahead: the Provençal vegetables may be prepared and marinated a day in advance. Oven-dried tomatoes can be prepared up to a week ahead.

For the grilled squid

squid 3 medium (each 300g), cleaned, tentacles reserved

olive oil 2 tbsp

lemon juice a squeeze

red chilli (ideally Rio Grande) 1, deseeded and finely chopped

grated palm sugar (or dark muscovado sugar) 10g¹

sea salt 2 pinches

For the Provençal vegetables

courgette 1 (150g), trimmed

fennel bulb 1 (300g), trimmed

oven-dried or sun-dried tomatoes 200g²

extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp

sea salt a pinch

freshly ground black pepper a pinch

For the rocket salad

rocket leaves 4 handfuls (100g), washed

balsamic vinegar (at least 8 years old) 1 tbsp

extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp

freshly ground black pepper a pinch

To garnish

extra virgin olive oil a little

parmesan shavings

You will need

griddle pan, mandoline

To prepare the squid, cut open the squid pouches along the body line and score on the inside³, then cut each one into 3 pieces. Place in a bowl with the tentacles, olive oil, lemon juice, chopped chilli, sugar and salt. Toss to mix and leave to marinate for 30 minutes⁴.

To prepare the Provençal vegetables, heat your griddle pan. Using a mandoline, cut both the courgette and fennel lengthways into long, wafer-thin (2mm) slices. Cook the courgette and fennel slices in the hot griddle pan, in batches as necessary, for 1 minute on one side and then remove from the heat and place in a shallow dish. Add the oven-/sun-dried tomatoes, drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper; set aside.

For the rocket salad, place the rocket leaves in a bowl. For the dressing, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil and pepper.

To grill the squid, preheat the griddle until very hot⁵ then add the squid and cook for 15–30 seconds on each side. Immediately remove from the griddle to a warm plate. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To serve, pile the rocket salad in the middle of each plate and dress lightly. Surround with the grilled squid and Provençal vegetables. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and top with some Parmesan shavings.

Variations: scatter over some freshly chopped parsley, chervil or chives to serve. Grill a wider variety of vegetables, perhaps including sliced peppers, red onions and aubergines. English asparagus spears – blanched for 2 minutes before grilling – make a lovely addition when in season.

Notes

1) Palm sugar lends a bit of sweetness and helps with the browning of the squid. Muscovado or brown sugar can be substituted.

2) Preparing your own oven-dried tomatoes will be much more satisfying and delicious. Cut each of 4 medium tomatoes into 8 wedges, lay on a baking tray and brush with olive oil. Place in a low oven at 100C/gas mark ¼ for 1½ hours to dry and intensify the flavour. Leave to cool then pack in a jar, add olive oil to cover and keep in the fridge for up to a week until ready to use.

3) Scoring the inside of the squid will assist in even cooking and encourage the squid to roll up attractively during cooking.

4) Marinating will boost the delicate flavour of the squid.

5) The griddle pan must be very hot indeed to ensure quick, short cooking and a golden caramelisation of the squid. If it is not hot enough you run the risk of boiling the squid in its own juices. If the squid is cooked for too long, it will become tough and rubbery. This high heat technique produces a lot of smoke, however, so make sure the kitchen is well ventilated and your extractor is on full.

Pot au feu

The quintessence of French family cuisine, this must be the most celebrated dish in France. It honours the tables of the rich and poor alike. Despite its lack of sophistication, it has survived the passage of time. Pot au feu is a triumph of simplicity and the inspiration for many other dishes, such as poule au pot, potée au choux, navarin, daubes, carbonnades and not forgetting the beautiful chicken soup. You can feast on it for several days.

Serves 8

Preparation: 30 mins, plus soaking ham hock

Cooking: 2¼ hours

Special equipment: large stockpot

Planning ahead: you can prepare this dish a day or two in advance and keep it in the fridge, ready to reheat and serve as required.

ham hock 1, about 1kg, soaked in cold water in the fridge for 6 hours or overnight

flank of beef, outer fat removed 500g

smoked streaky bacon, rind on 300g

cold water 3 litres

sea salt 2 pinches

bouquet garni 1 (6 bay leaves, 10g parsley, 4g thyme, tied together)

black peppercorns 20

garlic cloves, unpeeled 3

best quality sausage, such as Morteau ¹, about 350g

marrow bone 1, about 400g (optional)

For the vegetables

Savoy cabbage 1 cut into 6 wedges, core retained

medium carrots 6 (480g), peeled and quartered

celery stalks 2 (120g), cut into thirds

turnips 2 large (300g), peeled and halved

onions 2 (300g), peeled and quartered, root left on

flat-leaf parsley, chopped to garnish

To cook the meat and vegetables, place all the meat, except the Morteau sausage and marrow bone, in a large casserole. Pour on the cold water to cover, add the salt and slowly bring to the boil. Let bubble gently for 1 minute while skimming to remove the impurities².

Turn down to a gentle simmer, add the bouquet garni, peppercorns and garlic and cover with a lid, leaving a small gap³. Cook very gently, with one bubble just breaking the surface, for 1½ hours. Skim off most of the fat⁴, then add the Morteau sausage and marrow bone.

Blanch the cabbage wedges in boiling water for 3 minutes, then add to the casserole with the rest of the vegetables. Cook very gently for a further 30 minutes or until the meat just starts to come away from the bone and the vegetables are soft but still holding their shape. Taste the liquid and correct the seasoning.

To serve, you could simply serve the pot au feu straight from the casserole and let guests help themselves, but serving will be easier if you portion the meat in the kitchen. Divide the meat between warm soup plates, surround with the vegetables and pour on some of the cooking liquor. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and accompany with Dijon mustard, gherkins and a French baguette.

Variations: other cuts of meat, such as feather blade steak, shin of been, lamb shank or pig's cheeks could be added to the dish at the start of cooking. Other root vegetables could be used, such as parsnips, swede, potatoes, celeriac, etc.

Notes

1) This smoked French sausage from Morteau in Franche-Comté is probably the best quality sausage you can ever eat. It is strongly flavoured and densely textured. In fact, the flavour is so pronounced you could use the sausage alone in this pot au feu, doubling the quantity and leaving out the other meats, as I often do. Morteau sausage can be easily purchased online.

2) This clarification process coagulates the blood and impurities, which can then be skimmed away, producing a much clearer stock.

3) The pot au feu must be simmered not boiled, otherwise the meat will become tough and the broth will turn very cloudy. When covering with a lid, it is important to leave a gap – if the lid is on tight, the heat will accumulate and the broth will boil.

4) A little fat will improve and enhance the flavour of the broth, so I recommend that you do not skim all of it away. However, if you are determined to remove all the fat, the best way to do so is to allow the pot au feu to cool completely; the fat will then solidify on the surface of the liquid, making it easier to remove.

Chicken with morels and sherry wine sauce

This is a great classic of French cuisine and it originates from my own region. It is quick and easy to prepare and I urge you to cook it for your friends. To me, morels are the finest mushrooms in the world and you can now find them dried in good supermarkets. I even prefer the dried ones to the fresh ones as their flavour is so much more pronounced. The traditional Jura wine is the best, if you happen to have some, otherwise a dry sherry works very well.

Serves 4

Preparation: 10 mins, plus 2 hours soaking mushrooms

Cooking: 20 mins

Planning ahead: the dried morels need to be soaked for at least a couple of hours. You can prepare the chicken half an hour in advance and warm it through in the morel sauce to serve.

dried morels¹ 30g, soaked in 250ml water for at least 2 hours

organic/free-range chicken breasts 4 (180g each), skinned

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

unsalted butter 15g

firm button mushrooms 250g, washed quickly, patted dry and quartered

dry sherry or Jura wine 120ml

double cream 400ml

For the leeks

medium leeks, trimmed 2 cut into 2cm pieces and washed

boiling water 200ml

pinch of sea salt

unsalted butter 15g

To prepare the morels, drain the morels, reserving the soaking liquid, and squeeze to extract as much of the liquor as possible. Rinse the morels, drain and squeeze dry. Cut larger morels into smaller pieces; set aside. Pass the reserved liquid through a muslin-lined sieve to remove any sand or grit and save 100ml.

To cook the chicken, season the breasts with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan, melt the butter over a medium heat until it is foaming². Add the chicken breasts and colour lightly for 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the pan and reserve.

In the fat remaining in the frying pan, soften the soaked morels and button mushrooms together, for 1-2 minutes. Meanwhile, boil the sherry or wine in a small pan for 30 seconds. Add the sherry or wine³ to the mushrooms with the reserved morel liquid and a pinch of salt. Pour in the cream and bring to the boil.

Place the chicken breasts back in the pan, making sure the cream sauce covers them. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 10 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken breasts, until they are just cooked through⁴.

To cook the leeks, while the chicken is cooking, put the leeks into a saucepan, pour on the boiling water and add the salt and butter. Cover and cook at a full boil for 5–10 minutes until tender.

To finish the dish, using a slotted spoon, lift out the chicken breasts and place in a warm dish; keep warm. Boil the sauce rapidly to reduce until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Place the chicken breasts back in the sauce to reheat for 2 minutes.

To serve, with a slotted spoon, lift the leeks from their liquid and arrange on warmed plates. Sit the chicken breasts on top and pour the morel sauce over and around. By this time your kitchen will be filled with heavenly smells. Accompany with a chilled bottle of Jura wine for a perfect moment. Bon appetit.

Variations: use dried ceps in place of the morels. Or you can use fresh wild mushrooms, adding them with the button mushrooms. Replace the chicken with guinea fowl or pork chops, adjusting the cooking time accordingly.

Notes

1) Dried morels are highly prized by the gourmet. These mushrooms grow in many parts of Europe during the spring. Conical-shaped, with a distinctive honeycomb structure, they hold sand and grit, so need to be washed a few times in fresh water to ensure they are thoroughly cleaned.

2) The butter will start to foam at about 130C. At 150-155C it will turn a hazelnut colour. This is the perfect stage to caramelise the chicken without drying it.

3) I boil the sherry or wine before adding it to the dish to remove most of the alcohol, retaining the flavour and character.

4) It is essential to avoid overcooking the chicken, or it will become dry. The timing here should ensure that your chicken is tender and succulent.

Braised rabbit with mustard 

Rabbit is probably the animal that polarises our two nations more than any other. The French look upon it as food, whereas to the British it is primarily a pet and therefore something that should not be eaten. At my family home in France, we had this dish almost every other Sunday. It is really very tasty and I hope I can persuade you to try it. Most good butchers and quality supermarkets now sell farmed rabbit.

Serves 4-6

Preparation: 20 mins

Cooking: 45 mins–1¼ hours

small wild rabbits 2 (800g-1.2kg) or large farmed rabbit 1 (1.5-2kg), jointed ¹

sea salt 4 pinches

crushed black pepper 4 pinches

Dijon mustard 1 rounded tbsp

plain flour 4 tbsp

unsalted butter 50g

olive oil 20ml

onion ½ medium, peeled and cut into

6 wedges, or Griotte onions 12, peeled

garlic cloves, skin on 6

white wine 150ml

white wine vinegar 1 tbsp

water 150ml

black peppercorns 6

sage leaves 2

tarragon sprig 1

bay leaf 1

chopped parsley 1 tbsp, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 140C/gas mark 1 – but I prefer to use a fan oven, set at 120C, for best results. Put the rabbit pieces into a large bowl and season with the salt and pepper. Add the mustard and turn the pieces to ensure each one is coated in a thin film of mustard. Scatter the flour on a plate. Dip each piece of rabbit in the flour to coat, patting off any excess.

To cook the rabbit, in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat, melt the butter and heat until lightly foaming. Sear the rabbit pieces in the hot butter, in batches as necessary, for 7-8 minutes, turning only as necessary to colour them all over².

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small saucepan and sweat the onion and garlic over a medium heat for 10 minutes³, seasoning lightly with salt and pepper after a couple of minutes. In a separate small pan, boil the wine for 30 seconds to reduce.

Add the wine vinegar to the rabbit and reduce the liquid down to a syrup⁴. Add the garlic and onion, reduced wine, water, peppercorns⁵ and herbs. Stir, then cover with a lid and cook in the oven until tender, stirring occasionally. Allow 45 minutes for farmed rabbit; 1–1¼ hours for wild rabbit ⁶. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

To finish the dish, using a slotted spoon, transfer the rabbit to a warmed dish. Place the casserole over a high heat to reduce the liquid by one-third. Pour the sauce over the pieces of rabbit and sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Serve with French beans, Swiss chard, braised lettuce or any other seasonal vegetable.

Variations: replace the rabbit with free-range or organic chicken or guinea fowl. Olives and sautéed wild mushrooms would be a lovely addition.

Notes

1) First get to know your rabbit! Most farmed rabbits come from France and the best label assurance scheme is Label Rouge. Ask your butcher to prepare and joint the rabbit for you, into small serving pieces.

2) For the best flavour I brown the rabbit slowly in butter, which must be sizzling on a medium heat and the pieces need to be in a single layer. As the meat browns, the juices leak out and begin to caramelise on the bottom of the pan; this sediment will richly flavour your sauce.

3) Gently cooking the onions converts their starch into sugar, sweetening them and enhancing the flavour.

4) It is important to reduce the vinegar right down. If it is under-reduced you will have a sauce that is too acidic.

5) Black peppercorns will release their spice gradually during the long cooking, so they are added at this stage.

6) Wild rabbit will take longer to tenderise. Cook until it just falls off the bone.

Fig tart

I wanted to create a fig tart without cream or milk, as seems appropriate to Provence and the Mediterranean, where these fruits grow profusely. After a number of trials, I came up with this recipe, which I am particularly pleased with. The black figs Les Violettes de Solliès, from Solliès-Pont in Provence, are the best variety to use. You can prepare this dessert a few hours in advance. There will be enough pastry to make two tarts; freeze one portion for another occasion.

Serves 6

Preparation: 25 mins, plus 1 hour resting and 30 minutes cooling

Cooking: 50 mins

Special equipment: blender or food processor, 20cm tart ring, baking stone (optional)

Planning ahead: you can prepare this dessert a few hours in advance. There will be enough pastry to make two tarts; freeze one portion for later use.

For the sweetcrust pastry

plain flour 250g

icing sugar 75g, plus extra to dust

sea salt a pinch

unsalted butter 120g, diced, at room temperature

egg yolks 2 medium organic/free-range

cold water 1-2 tsp

For the filling

blackcurrants 150g, fresh or frozen

semi-dried figs stalks cut off 150g

fig jam best qualit, not overly sweet, such as La Confiture à l'Ancienne 100g¹

small fresh figs (ideally black figs from Provence) 10-12

For the glaze

fig jam 50g

To make the sweet pastry, in a large bowl, mix together the flour, icing sugar and salt. Add the butter and, using your fingertips, lightly rub it in, lifting the mixture as you do so, until it reaches a sandy texture. Create a well in the centre and add the egg yolks and water. With your fingertips, in little concentric circles, work the liquid ingredients into the flour mixture until evenly combined and clumped², then bring the dough together and press to form a ball³.

Break off 20-30g of dough, tightly wrap in cling film and refrigerate for later (to tuck in the dough). Shape the remaining dough into a cylinder, cut in half⁴ and flatten each piece to a round, 2cm thick⁵. Wrap each portion in cling film. Refrigerate for 20–30 minutes before rolling out (or freezing one for later use).

To roll out the dough, place the rested dough in the middle of a large sheet of cling film, about 40cm square, and cover with another sheet of cling film, of similar dimensions. Roll out the dough to a circle, 3mm thick⁶.

To line the tart ring, place the tart ring on a peel or flat tray lined with greaseproof paper. Take off the top layer of cling film and discard, then lift the dough by picking up the corners of the cling film and invert it into the tart ring, removing the cling film. Press the dough onto the base and inside of the ring with the little ball of dough, ensuring it is neatly moulded into the shape of the ring.

Trim the edges of the tart by rolling a rolling pin over the top of the ring. Now, push the pastry gently up by pressing between your index finger and thumb all around the rim, to raise the edge 2mm above the ring⁷. Prick the base of the pastry case⁸. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to rest and firm up the pastry.

To pre-bake the pastry case, preheat the oven to 170C/gas mark 3. Place a baking stone or baking tray on the middle shelf of the oven. Slide the pastry case directly onto the hot baking stone or tray in the oven and par-bake for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

To make the filling, while the pastry case is in the oven, crush the blackcurrants⁹ and place in a bowl. Purée the semi-dried figs in a blender or food processor and add to the blackcurrants with the fig jam. Mix well and then spread evenly in the pastry case. Cut the fresh figs into quarters and arrange in a rosette on top.

To cook the tart, bake for 25 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and deep golden. Set aside to cool to room temperature. For the glaze, warm the jam in a small pan and brush over the fig quarters. Serve the tart cut into slices, dusted with icing sugar and accompanied by a bowl of creme fraiche.

Notes

1) You do not want a jam that is overly sweet. Of the various fig jams I have tried, La Confiture à l'Ancienne gave the best balance of sweet and fruit.

2) Do not over-mix the pastry, as this will make the dough elastic and cause it to retract during cooking.

3) Although hands are gentler and will give you a better pastry, you can make the pastry in a food processor, using the pulse button for no more than 30 seconds

to bring the dough together (to avoid over-mixing). A few seconds too many and your pastry will be over-mixed and brittle once cooked.

4) There will be enough pastry to make two tart cases but it isn't practicable to make a smaller quantity. Freeze the other half for another occasion.

5) During chilling the dough will firm up, so if it is shaped into a ball it will be difficult to roll out. Flatten the dough into a disc before putting in the fridge and you will find it much easier to roll. Resting makes the dough less elastic, more pliable and easier to work with. It also minimises shrinkage in the oven.

6) Rolling the pastry between cling film avoids the problem of it sticking and enables you to manage without flour, which makes your pastry heavier.

7) By pushing the edge of the tart to 2mm above the rim, you are compensating for any slight retraction of the pastry during cooking.

8) Pricking the base of the tart case with a fork allows steam generated during cooking to escape, helping to keep the case flat and level.

9) Lightly crush the blackcurrants in a food processor or defrost and roughly chop with a chef's knife. Blackcurrants bring a touch of magic to this dish, introducing an element of sharpness and supporting the fig flavour.

Apple tart "Maman Blanc"

In my book, Maman Blanc makes the best apple tart. It takes its roots from simplicity. The secret lies in choosing the right apple, with a great flavour and the right balance of acidity and sweetness. The varieties I have suggested to use here will fluff up and caramelise beautifully, filling your kitchen with an enticing apple aroma. I sometimes pour a light custard into the tart towards the end of cooking – it is simply divine, so do try it (see variations). I also make this tart using other fruits, notably plums, apricots and cherries.

Serves 6

Preparation: 20 mins, plus 45 mins resting

Cooking: 30 mins

Special equipment: 18cm tart ring, baking stone (optional)

For the shortcrust pastry

plain flour 200g

unsalted butter, diced, at room temperature¹ 100g

sea salt a pinch

egg organic/free-range 1 medium

cold water 1 tbsp

For the apple filling and glaze

dessert apples, such as Cox's Orange Pippin, Worcester, Egremont Russet, Braeburn 3

unsalted butter 15g

caster sugar 15g

lemon juice 1½ tsp

Calvados (optional) 7g

icing sugar for dusting

To make the shortcrust pastry, put the flour, butter and salt into a large bowl and rub together delicately using your fingertips until the mixture reaches a sandy texture¹. Create a well in the centre and add the egg and water. With your fingertips, in little concentric circles, work the liquid ingredients² into the flour and butter mixture; then at the last moment when the eggs have been absorbed, bring the dough together and press to form a ball³.

Turn on to a lightly floured surface and knead gently with the palms of your hands for 10 seconds until you have a hom*ogeneous dough; do not overwork it.

Break off 20–30g dough, wrap separately and chill. Wrap the remaining dough in cling film and flatten it to about a 2cm thickness. Leave to rest in the fridge for 20–30 minutes⁴.

To roll out the dough, place the rested dough in the middle of a large sheet of cling film, about 40cm square, and cover with another sheet of cling film, of similar dimensions. Roll out the dough to a circle, 2-3mm thick⁵.

To line the tart ring, place the tart ring on a flat tray lined with greaseproof paper. Lift off the top layer of cling film from the pastry and discard, then lift the dough by the lower cling film and invert it into the tart ring, removing the cling film. Press the dough on to the base and inside of the ring with the little ball of dough, ensuring that the pastry is neatly moulded into the shape of the ring. Trim the edge of the pastry by rolling a rolling pin over the top of the ring. Now, push the pastry gently up by pressing between your index finger and thumb all around the edge of the tart ring, to raise the edge 2mm above the ring. With a fork, prick the bottom of the pastry case⁶. Place in the fridge for about 20 minutes to relax the pastry.

To prepare for baking, preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7. Place a baking stone⁷ or baking tray on the middle shelf of the oven.

To assemble the tart, peel and core the apples and cut each one into 10 segments. Lay the apple segments closely together and overlapping in a circle in the base of the tart case. In a small pan, melt the butter and sugar, then remove from the heat and mix in the lemon juice and Calvados, if using. Brush this mixture over the apple slices and dust liberally with icing sugar.

To bake the tart, using the board, slide the tart directly on to the preheated baking stone or tray in the oven and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the oven down to 200C/gas mark 6 and bake for a further 20 minutes until the pastry is light golden in colour and the apples are beautifully caramelised. Leave the tart to stand for about 30 minutes before serving, until barely warm. To de-mould, remove the ring and slide the tart on to a large, flat plate. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

Variation: for a creamy filling, whisk 1 medium egg with 50g caster sugar and 100ml whipping cream to make a light custard and pour into the tart 10 minutes before the end of cooking.

Notes

1) For a successful pastry you need to have even distribution of butter within the flour, to give it flakiness. This is difficult to achieve if the butter is cold, so make sure it is at room temperature. Rub in delicately with your fingertips; do not try to knead at this stage.

2) At this point it is for you to judge the consistency of the dough. If it is too wet add a little flour; if too dry add a little water. Flours differ in their absorbency.

3) Alternatively, you could make the pastry in a food processor, using the pulse button to bring the dough together.

4) Because you have worked the gluten in the flour, the dough is elastic at this stage. Resting it in the fridge makes the dough more pliable and easier to roll. This will minimise shrinkage in the oven.

5) Rolling the dough between cling film enables you to roll it very thin without using flour. You then discard the top layer, using the bottom cling film to pick up the pastry. As you place the pastry in the tart ring ensure the cling film is uppermost.

6) Pricking the base will help the distribution of heat and thorough cooking.

7) A common problem is an undercooked, soggy base – the result of insufficient bottom heat. Using a bottomless tart ring and a baking stone overcomes this, as there is an instant transfer of heat from the hot baking stone to the pastry base.

Cherry clafoutis

Clafoutis is one of the great classics of French family cuisine. This dessert often features on our menus, both at Le Manoir and at Brasserie Blanc. It is very easy to prepare and I would go as far as to say it is foolproof. Other stone fruits, such as peaches, plums and apricots, or indeed figs, work just as well.

Serves 4

Preparation: 30 mins, plus 2 hours macerating

Cooking: 30–35 mins

Special equipment: 20cm round ceramic or cast-iron baking dish (5cm deep), cherry stoner

Planning ahead: the clafoutis mixture can be prepared a day in advance

ripe cherries best-quality (such as Montmorency or Morello), stoned 450g

caster sugar 50g

kirsch, to taste (optional) 2-3 tbsp

For preparing the dish

unsalted butter 10g, melted

caster sugar 30g, plus extra to finish (optional)

For the batter

eggs medium, organic/free-range 2

caster sugar 45g

pure vanilla extract ½ tsp

unsalted butter 20g

plain flour 20g

whole milk 50ml

whipping cream 75ml

pinch of sea salt

To prepare the cherries, gently mix the cherries, sugar and kirsch, if using, in a bowl. Cover and leave to macerate for 2 hours¹. Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4.

To prepare the dish, brush the inside with the melted butter. Add the sugar and tilt the dish to coat the sides and base evenly; shake out the excess.

To make the clafoutis, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs, caster sugar and vanilla together until creamy. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and cook to a beurre noisette². Add the flour to the egg and sugar mixture and whisk until smooth, then slowly incorporate the milk, cream, salt and beurre noisette. Stir in the cherries with their juice and then pour into the prepared baking dish.

To cook the clafoutis, bake for 30-35 minutes until the clafoutis is lightly risen and a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean³. Leave to stand for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with caster sugar if using and serve just warm.

Notes

1) While macerating, the sugar slowly permeates the fruit and intensifies the taste.

2) The foaming butter will turn a hazelnut colour at 150-155C, ie, beurre noisette. This butter will lend a wonderful roundness and nutty flavour to the clafoutis.

3) The centre is always the last part to cook, so you must test it. Note that a dip in the middle suggests the clafoutis is undercooked.

Iles flottantes'façon Maman Blanc'

This is a dessert from my childhood. I have vivid memories of neverending lunches with adults talking about politics and other serious subjects, while we sat and longed for îles flottantes to be served. It was worth the wait. This is probably the most celebrated dessert in France; you will find it in homes, small brasseries and Michelin-starred restaurants alike.

Serves 4

Preparation: 40 mins plus cooling

Cooking: 20 mins

Special equipment: electric mixer (optional)

Planning ahead: the meringues and custard can be made up to a day in advance

For the vanilla milk

organic whole milk 1.3 litres

vanilla extract 1 tsp

For the meringues

egg whites 6, organic/free-range, medium

lemon juice 12 drops

caster sugar 100g

For the crème anglaise

vanilla milk (saved from poaching the meringues) 1 litre

caster sugar 85g

egg yolks 10, organic/free-range, medium

For the caramel

water 50ml

caster sugar 175g

For the vanilla milk, pour the milk into a roasting tray or large frying pan, add the vanilla syrup and heat gently to a bare simmer to infuse.

To make the meringues, meanwhile, using an electric mixer on medium speed or a balloon whisk, whisk the egg whites with the lemon juice¹ to soft peaks, then slowly add the sugar, whisking constantly. Continue to whisk until the meringue holds firm peaks.

To poach the meringues, using a large spoon dipped in hot water, scoop large dollops of meringue and place in the vanilla milk. (Alternatively you can shape smooth quenelles of meringue between two spoons dipped in hot water.) Poach the meringues in the shimmering milk² for 5 minutes on each side. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a tray lined with non-stick baking paper to drain. Strain and reserve the poaching milk to make the custard.

To make the crème anglaise, in a medium pan, bring the vanilla milk to a gentle simmer over a medium heat with 2 tsp of the sugar added³. Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the egg yolks and remaining sugar together until well mixed. Pour the hot milk onto the eggs, whisking constantly, and then pour back into the same saucepan⁴. Place over a medium-low heat and stir continuously with a wooden spoon until the custard begins to thicken and coats the back of your spoon⁵. Immediately strain into a large bowl set over ice to stop the cooking. Leave the custard to cool, stirring occasionally.

To assemble, pour the custard into individual wide serving bowls and arrange the poached meringues on top. Leave in the fridge while you make the caramel.

To make the caramel, put the water into a small saucepan, add the sugar and leave for a few minutes to allow the water to be absorbed, then dissolve over a low heat⁶. Increase the heat to medium and cook the sugar syrup to a rich caramel⁷. Immediately remove from the heat and dip the base of the pan in cold water for 8-10 seconds to arrest the cooking.

To serve, trickle the caramel decoratively over the meringues and serve at once.

Variations: flavour the custard with grated lemon zest, or grated orange zest and a splash of Grand Marnier, or melted chocolate.

Notes

1) Whisking egg whites increases their volume by trapping tiny air bubbles inside the protein network. However, if you over-whisk the egg whites, they will become thick and grainy, lose volume and separate into a dry froth and a runny liquid.

2) When poaching meringues ensure your vanilla milk is at a shimmer, ie, just under a simmer. If the liquid is too hot, the meringues will soufflé dramatically and then deflate just as fast. Poach them gently and they will hold their shape and keep their fluffy texture.

3) I always add a little sugar, 10g or so per litre, to the milk before heating; this prevents the milk proteins from sticking and burning on the bottom of the pan.

4) When you are making a custard, always pour the hot milk/cream mixture onto the cold beaten eggs before returning to the pan to cook through. If you reverse this process you are in danger of scrambling the eggs before the sauce has had a chance to thicken.

5) If your custard starts to scramble a little at the bottom of the pan as you cook it, immediately pour into a food processor (be careful not to over-fill) and blend until smooth again. Pour into a bowl over crushed ice to cool quickly.

6) To prevent sugar crystallising when you make caramel, first put a little water in the bottom of the pan, add the sugar on top and let this absorb the water.

7) Because the caramel is made in a dark pan, it can look darker than it actually is. Take a spoonful or pour a little on to a white plate. If you undercook your caramel it will be pale, too sweet and lacking in character. You need to cook it almost to a smoking point, then it will be dark brown, with a wonderful, characteristic bitter-sweet caramel flavour.

Kitchen Secrets begins on BBC2 on 21 February